Welcome to a new installment in our series of Tips from The Tech Shop.
Tech Tip for November
This month’s tip is about the Walking Foot. Sometimes a mystery, sometimes a saviour, this sewing machine accessory can be a little confusing if you haven’t used it before. The walking foot is designed to help feed multiple layers of fabric as you sew. There are feed dogs underneath your presser foot which push against the bottom of the presser foot and slide the fabric along. The walking foot has teeth or pads that press downwards and work with the feed dogs to grip the fabric on the top and the bottom.
Typically, we recommend using the walking foot for quilting. You can also use it for any tricky or unco-operative fabrics like plaids, minkee or fun fur.
A recent article from Interweave‘s Sew Daily newsletter hits it right in the ditch:
The walking foot helps keep thick, slippery or sticky fabric layers from shifting as you sew.
When is a walking foot “Optional”?
This knit on this raglan sleeve
was topstitched without
the benefit of a walking foot.
Look what a difference using
a walking foot makes!
Comparison photos courtesy
of The Sewing Workshop.
If the designer is a little more opinionated, it may read: “optional, but helpful …”
So what does this odd-shaped foot do, and is it: “optional, helpful, or … necessary?
Basically, the walking foot provides a gripping action from the top of the fabric which coordinates with the grip of the feed dogs which are built into the bed of your sewing machine. As the bottom feed dogs pull—or feed—the fabric under the needle so that even stitches are created, the walking foot is gripping and pulling the fabric through from the top.
So when is a walking foot “Optional”?
• If you’re working with two layers of a fairly stable woven fabric, there is very little need for a walking foot. The pressure of your feed dogs against a standard foot provides all the friction necessary for the fabric layers to move through smoothly.
What are the “Optional, but Helpful” uses?
• When working with laminates or oilcloth, a walking foot definitely helps to keep these “sticky” fabrics moving.
• If you have several layers of fabric or heavier, canvas-type fabrics, it’s often difficult for the machine foot to provide enough pressure to keep the fabric layers from shifting. Frequent pinning may solve the problem, but a walking foot is, well, helpful.
And is there a “Necessary” category?
• If you are quilting layers of fabric with batting, a walking foot keeps all the layers stable and moving smoothly. This is true whether you’re making a bed-size quilt or a small tote.
• And here is a little known—but my new favorite—use for the walking foot: topstitching on knits. You no longer have to watch the knits creep and bunch as you topstitch seams, finish neck edges, or stitch up the hems. I learned this trick from Linda Lee of The Sewing Workshop and now can’t imagine working with knits without my walking foot.
That being said, may I also say that I’m always a bit hesitant to use the word “necessary” when talking about sewing supplies? I’ve done a tremendous amount of fairly complex sewing on an old Sears machine which has no bells and maybe one whistle. So when I use the word “necessary,” I don’t mean that it is absolutely impossible to complete a project without it. It is simply that the process is so much less laborious and the results are so much more successful with the foot than without it.
Walking feet are not inexpensive, but depending on the type of projects you work on, your sewing can be a lot more pleasant when you use one.
- If you’re working with two layers of a fairly stable woven fabric, there is very little need for a walking foot. The pressure of your feed dogs against a standard foot provides all the friction necessary for the fabric layers to move through smoothly.
What are the “Optional, but Helpful” uses?
- When working with laminates or oilcloth, a walking foot definitely helps to keep these “sticky” fabrics moving.
- If you have several layers of fabric or heavier, canvas-type fabrics, it’s often difficult for the machine foot to provide enough pressure to keep the fabric layers from shifting. Frequent pinning may solve the problem, but a walking foot is, well, helpful.
Is there a “Necessary” category?
- If you are quilting layers of fabric with batting, a walking foot keeps all the layers stable and moving smoothly. This is true whether you’re making a bed-size quilt or a small tote.
- And here is a little known—but my new favorite—use for the walking foot: topstitching on knits. You no longer have to watch the knits creep and bunch as you topstitch seams, finish neck edges, or stitch up the hems. I learned this trick from Linda Lee of The Sewing Workshop and now can’t imagine working with knits without my walking foot.
That being said, may I also say that I’m always a bit hesitant to use the word “necessary” when talking about sewing supplies? I’ve done a tremendous amount of fairly complex sewing on an old Sears machine which has no bells and maybe one whistle. So when I use the word “necessary,” I don’t mean that it is absolutely impossible to complete a project without it. It is simply that the process is so much less laborious and the results are so much more successful with the foot than without it.
~ Rose DeBoer, Stitch magazine

Savvy? Your next question might be, “So, how does this compare with my built-in feeding system?”
There are several machine brands that offer a built-in walking foot. If it has only one “toe” – whether it be in the centre or on the side – it will definitely offer higher visibility of your stitching while you work. However, if it’s only the single feed, it isn’t as aggressive as having a set of two upper grips.
If your built-in system has an independent motor, it may be able to feed both frontwards and backwards, allowing for its use with decorative stitching. Typically, the standard walking foot only works in frontwards-motion stitches, and is not recommended for detailed decorative stitching.
Both the built-in feeding system and the walking foot are helpful, and they will each work better in different situations. You can do a whole lot with just your regular sewing foot, but there are presser feet designed to do specific tasks better. Sometimes a small investment in a new accessory will repay you endlessly with sewing happiness. We’ll wager that the walking foot is one of those.
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